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With his dark, wavy hair, thick mustache, and strong accent, Akilli commands the kitchen area, darting back and forth between the freshly shaved gyro meats and the various vegetables and sauces. Akilli’s permanently friendly expression and attitude seem to permeate everything he does.

The soft, sensual strains of authentic Turkish music float in the background din, adding to the warmth and ambience of the seating area. All around seven tables that make up the serving floor, gleaming copper, brass, tapestries, and glass beads adorn the walls and even the soda fountain. As you inch to your table to take it all in, a scarved woman smiles a warm greeting and, if you’re a return customer, often gently squeezes your arm and asks how you’ve been.

Such an experience is typical at the Black Sea, a well-known local favorite only half a block from campus on Snelling that has been touted at Hamline for years as an excellent - as well as cheap - place to eat.

Akilli, the owner of the restaurant, is a native of Turkey from the Trabzon area. Before moving to the United States, he first went to Germany to study electronics at a university, but moved to the U.S. before completing his training. After more than a decade in the United States laying carpet and spray-painting, he opened the Black Sea in February of 2001. He had never really planned to run a restaurant before starting his current business.

“I made food before for myself at home, and I liked it,” he said, “so I figured other people might like it too. It’s good stuff.”

Akilli’s move to Minnesota was a simple decision, based mostly on what he was told about Minnesota and its people.

“I heard so many things about the nice people and better life in Minnesota,” he said.

Akilli’s wife Sema, thirteen years younger than he is, also came from the Trabzon area of Turkey.
She started working at the Black Sea around three years ago. Once Sema started working at the restaurant, it set into effect even bigger things that were to follow for the pair. Akilli mentioned the time he talked to Sema’s mother and told her “When [Sema] gets grown, I will marry her!”

The two have no children, however, although Akilli laughs as he tells me “hopefully next year.”
As for right now, he’s busy enough just keeping the place in order.

“My child is the restaurant,” he said.

When asked about any problems he has encountered in the restaurant, Akilli seemed hard pressed to find one. He did say he doesn’t like it when people come in looking to embroil him in political discussions.

“Some people come in here to talk about politics,” he said. “I try to help the people know about my culture, about Turkey. I’m not here for the politics.”

Akilli turns again to his work, greeting regulars and new customers with the same characteristic warmth and personality you could only hope to expect from actors in McDonald’s commercials.
The man is genuine. It is in how he conducts his business, and in how he treats his patrons with actual caring and friendship.

“To me, the restaurant is not a business,” he said. “People need to respect each other, to love each other, never fight, never cheat each other, and be honest with each other.”

Akilli said he and his wife believe these things are more important than making the most money possible.

“I don’t want to be a rich person, because someday I will lose this world. I don’t want your money; that doesn’t help me. I want your heart.”

Heading back to work again, it was easy to observe the pride and dedication in Akilli’s eyes as he worked with a vegetarian customer to ensure that her meal would be just right.

For those well-acquainted with the restaurant, this is more proof that Black Sea is an authentic and delicious place to eat. For newcomers to campus, keep in mind you can always look forward to a warm greeting and a great meal from Akilli and his wife on the other side of the Black Sea door. All in a day’s work.